grass profile2026-10-02By The Turf DeskCynodon dactylon · warm-season
Common bermudagrass from seed: cheaper, coarser, still unkillable
Generated from this page: thatch banded by tendency, roots to 350 mm, dot pitch set by the 15 mm cutting floor
The seeded bermudagrasses are the only way to get a bermudagrass lawn without buying sod. Establishment drops from 26 to 52 weeks down to 10 to 14, the price falls by roughly 80 percent, and the surface becomes coarser and more cold-sensitive. Cut at 20 to 35 mm on 15 g of nitrogen per square metre per year.
Common and improved seeded bermudagrasses establish from hulled seed at 5 to 10 g per square metre in 10 to 14 weeks, against 26 to 52 weeks for Tifway plugs. Seed is also around a fifth of the cost per square metre of hybrid sod. That is the entire case for seeding.
What you give up is density and texture. A seeded bermudagrass has wider leaf blades and a more open canopy, so it is cut at 20 to 35 mm rather than 15 to 25 mm, and it produces visible seed heads in midsummer that need a cut to remove. It is also less cold-hardy: the hybrids hold up two to four degrees further north.
The band is 20 to 35 mm, floor 15 mm. Cutting below 20 mm is the single most common failure with seeded bermudagrass: the stolon layer is thinner than a hybrid's, and scalping it opens the surface to crabgrass and goosegrass exactly when they are germinating.
Seed heads appear from midsummer and stand 20 to 40 mm above the canopy. They are not a sign of neglect, they are how the plant reproduces, and the fix is simply to cut at the bottom of the band, 20 mm, when they show.
Budget 15 g of nitrogen per square metre per year, split 40:35:25, which is 25 percent less than a Tifway lawn needs because the growth rate is lower. On 100 square metres that is 600 g, 525 g and 375 g of actual nitrogen.
The compensation is drought performance. Common bermudagrass roots to 200 to 350 mm, deeper than anything else in this profile set, and drought tier is 5 of 5. Once established it holds colour on 15 mm of water per week and can go eight weeks without irrigation and still recover from the rhizomes.
The two failure modes are shade and low cutting. Shade tolerance is 1 of 5, so any lawn with more than a few hours of tree shadow should not use this species at all; the stand thins to stolons and then to soil within two seasons.
The other failure is spring scalping. After dormancy the lawn is a mat of dead leaf with green stolons underneath, and cutting it hard to clean it up removes the stolons too. Mow at 35 mm through the first two cuts of spring, then drop back to 20 to 25 mm once growth starts.
No. It is coarser, less dense, needs a higher cut, produces seed heads, and is less cold-hardy. It costs about a fifth as much and establishes in a third of the time. For a home lawn that is usually the right trade.
How much water does it need in a drought?
15 mm per week keeps it green. Withholding water entirely, it goes dormant and survives up to eight weeks, then recovers from the rhizomes within two weeks of sustained rain.
Why is my bermudagrass not greening up in spring?
It needs soil temperature at 50 mm above 18 degrees Celsius, which is typically two to three weeks after the last frost. Green-up is driven by soil temperature, not air temperature.
Four field symptoms, each read back to the parameter that produced it rather than to a product. The last column is the one number that row turns on, with the threshold drawn on it.
Cutting height has been held below the species floor, thinning the stand from the centre of the lawn outwards until the soil is exposed.
Concentrated traffic along a path, at a gate or in front of a goal has worn through the canopy to soil, and the species has no rhizomes to repair it.
Drought dormancy has gone past the survival limit, four to six weeks for cool-season turf and six to eight for warm-season, and the crowns have died.
A fungal patch disease, large patch on warm-season turf or summer patch on cool-season, has killed the crowns in a ring pattern.
Grub or chafer larvae have eaten the roots under the patch, and the turf lifts away from the soil like a carpet when pulled.
A spill of fertiliser, petrol, herbicide or a concentrated dog urine patch has killed the leaf and the crown together.
Raise the cutting height to the species band: 25 to 40 mm for Kentucky bluegrass, 30 to 50 for perennial ryegrass, 50 to 70 for tall fescue, 40 to 60 for fine fescue.
Scarify or core-aerate the bare area to 75 mm depth so the seed has soil contact rather than a compacted surface.
Seed at the species rate: 15 g per square metre of Kentucky bluegrass, 30 of perennial ryegrass, 35 of tall fescue, 20 of fine fescue. Where the area is over 1 square metre, use a blend rather than a single species.
Where the species has no rhizomes, which is tall fescue, fine fescue and St. Augustinegrass, the only repair is seed or plugs. There is no parameter change that will fill the patch.
For a dog urine patch, water 25 mm immediately and leach the salts below the root zone, then reseed. Do not add nitrogen; the patch is already salt-burned.
For grubs, confirm by lifting the turf and finding 10 or more larvae per square metre, then treat; below that threshold the lawn recovers on its own.
Replace the traffic. A worn path worn again and again needs a hard surface or a paving strip, not another reseed.
Pull a handful of turf at the edge of the patch. If it lifts like a carpet with no roots attached, the cause is grubs or a root disease; if it resists, the cause is surface wear or drought.
Look for a ring pattern. Large patch and summer patch kill in expanding rings with a green centre or a green edge, which wear and drought do not produce.
Check the cutting height against the species band; scalping produces a uniform thinning across the whole lawn rather than isolated patches.
Dig a 100 mm deep spadeful at the edge of the patch and check for larvae, white fungal mycelium, or a hard compacted layer at 50 mm.
The surface stays wet: compacted soil, a thatch layer over 15 mm, or a hollow that collects water keeps the top 20 mm saturated for most of the year.
Light has fallen below the compensation point of the grass, usually under four hours of direct sun, so the turf thins and stops competing.
Soil pH has fallen below 5.5, which suppresses the grass and the bacteria that decompose thatch while moss tolerates the acidity.
The cutting height has been held below the species floor for long enough to thin the stand, opening the surface to colonisation.
Nitrogen has been below the species budget for several seasons, or above it, in both cases leaving a stand too weak to close the surface.
Soil has been compacted by traffic to the point where infiltration drops below 5 mm an hour and every rain sits on the surface.
Core-aerate to 75 mm depth at 50 to 100 mm spacing, two passes at right angles, to break the compacted layer and restore infiltration.
Scarify 5 mm in early autumn where thatch exceeds 15 mm, then overseed at the species rate; a thin stand is what moss is colonising.
Raise the cutting height to the top of the species band. In shade that means 60 mm for fine fescue and 70 mm for tall fescue, not 30 mm.
Switch the species to creeping red fescue, shade rating 5 of 5, where direct sun is under four hours. Moss tolerates shade; most lawn grasses do not.
Apply lime only if a soil test reads below pH 5.5, at 200 to 250 g per square metre on a loam, and retest after 12 months. Do not lime on the assumption that moss means acid.
Bring the annual nitrogen to the species budget in a shaded lawn, which is a third less than in full sun: fine fescue 4 to 6 g per square metre, tall fescue 8.
Improve drainage where water stands: a French drain, a surface swale, or the removal of a compaction pan at 150 to 200 mm.
Push a screwdriver into the soil. If it takes two hands and stops at 50 mm, compaction is the driver and aeration is the first action.
Time how long a 100 mm ring filled with water takes to drain. Under 25 mm an hour is compacted; under 5 mm an hour is severely compacted.
Map the sun: note how many hours of direct sun the mossy area receives in midsummer, not in spring. Under four hours, no grass species will win without changing the light.
Test the soil pH. Moss tolerates a wide range, so pH is only sometimes the driver and should never be assumed.
Read the thatch depth with a knife and ruler; above 15 mm the mat is holding the moisture that moss needs.
Nitrogen has been applied above the species budget for several seasons, producing more lignin-rich stem and stolon tissue than the soil can decompose.
Clippings have been bagged for years on a lawn that is now below 10 mm of thatch, removing the nitrogen the microbes need to break the mat down.
Soil pH has drifted below 5.5, collapsing the bacterial population and shifting decomposition to slower fungal pathways.
The lawn is a species with a thatch tendency of 5 out of 5 and has never been scarified.
Irrigation is frequent and shallow, keeping the surface constantly moist and the mat compressed rather than allowing it to dry and fracture.
Scarify 5 mm, in early autumn when soil temperature at 50 mm is between 15 and 21 degrees Celsius, with the tines set to just graze the mat.
Overseed the same day at the full species rate, 10 to 15 g per square metre for Kentucky bluegrass, 25 to 35 for perennial ryegrass, 30 to 40 for tall fescue.
Topdress 1 to 2 mm of sand-loam matched to the root zone, then water 6 to 10 mm a day for ten days.
Cut the annual nitrogen to the species budget: 15 g per square metre for Kentucky bluegrass, 10 for zoysia, 6 for centipedegrass and fine fescues.
Raise soil pH into the species band with 200 to 250 g per square metre of lime on a loam, applied in the following autumn and retested after 12 months.
Switch to mowing at the top of the species band and mulch the clippings, which returns 1 to 2 g of nitrogen per square metre per year.
Cut a 100 mm square flap of turf with a knife, lift it like a hinge and read the brown fibrous layer between the green leaf bases and the dark soil with a ruler. Do it in three places.
Push a screwdriver into the profile; if it stops in the mat before reaching soil, the layer is thick and hydrophobic.
Watch a hose test: water beading and running off a dry lawn instead of soaking in is the signature of a hydrophobic thatch layer.
Check for the crown being lifted above the soil line by parting the grass with both hands; crowns 15 to 20 mm above soil dry out in two days.
15 mm
mat depth
Broadleaf weeds2026-11-01
This row is released with the 2026-11-01 entry, and will carry the same four columns as the others.
