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Swardwright — released operations / 已发布作业
https://mistyvale.top/ops.txt
generated 2026-09-24 · 3 operations, each in en and zh
Plain text. No affiliate links, no products. Nothing here is agronomic advice.
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ENGLISH
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## Mowing to a set height  [mowing]
   https://mistyvale.top/op/mowing-height-and-one-third-rule/

Window: All year, governed by growth rate rather than the calendar. Cut whenever the canopy has added a third of the target height. Stop cutting only when soil temperature at 50 mm falls below 5 degrees Celsius and top growth has ceased.
Frequency: 22 to 35 cuts a year on a cool-season lawn in a temperate climate, 18 to 26 on a warm-season lawn. The count follows the growth rate; there is no correct weekly interval that holds all season.
Implement: Reel mower for any band below 25 mm. Rotary mower acceptable from 30 mm upwards. A mulching plug in the discharge chute returns the clippings instead of bagging them.

  - Target cutting height: 25 to 70 mm depending on species
  - Maximum removed per cut: one third of the standing blade
  - Interval in the spring flush: 3 to 4 days
  - Interval at steady growth: 7 to 14 days
  - Edging depth along hard surfaces: 25 to 40 mm
  - Nitrogen returned with clippings: 1 to 2 g per square metre per year

Must hold before you start:
  * Set the bedknife or blade height on a hard, level surface and measure it with a ruler, not with the dial.
  * Cut when the canopy is dry. Mowing wet turf tears the leaf and spreads fungal spores from plant to plant.
  * Alternate the mowing direction by 45 to 90 degrees each cut to stop the lawn developing a permanent grain.

Do not run it when:
  ! Do not cut when soil temperature at 50 mm is above 30 degrees Celsius and the lawn is in drought dormancy: the leaves are not regrowing and the cut exposes crowns.
  ! Never take more than a third in one pass to catch up on a missed cut. Raise the height, cut, then lower in two or three stages over a week.
  ! Do not mow within 48 hours of a frost or while the leaf is frozen.

Calibration:
  + Park the mower on a paved surface, set the dial to the target height, then measure from the pavement to the blade tip at both ends of the deck.
  + Recheck the blade height after every blade sharpening or deck removal; the reference point moves.
  + Sharpen reel blades when the cut leaf tip shows a white, torn edge rather than a clean slice; on a home lawn that is once or twice a season.

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## Hollow-tine core aeration  [aeration]
   https://mistyvale.top/op/hollow-tine-aeration/

Window: For cool-season turf, the early-autumn window when soil temperature at 50 mm is between 15 and 21 degrees Celsius and the grass is growing hard. For warm-season turf, late spring to early summer once full green-up has completed and soil temperature at 50 mm is above 20 degrees Celsius.
Frequency: Once a year on a home lawn in a loam soil. Twice a year, spring and autumn, on a lawn with more than 15 mm of thatch, a clay soil, or heavy foot traffic. Once every second year on a low-input fine fescue lawn that is not trafficked.
Implement: Hollow-tine (core) aerator, walk-behind or towed, with 12 to 16 mm diameter tines on 50 to 100 mm spacing. A solid-tine spike aerator is not a substitute: it compacts the hole walls instead of removing a core.

  - Core depth: 75 to 100 mm
  - Hole spacing: 50 to 100 mm
  - Tine diameter: 12 to 16 mm
  - Passes over the same ground: 2, at 90 degrees to each other passes
  - Cores per square metre at 75 mm spacing: approx 178 holes
  - Soil moisture at the time of work: moist but not saturated, crumbly not smeared state
  - Topdressing sand after coring: 1 to 2 mm

Must hold before you start:
  * Scarify first if thatch exceeds 15 mm. Coring into a thick mat pushes cores into the mat rather than into the soil.
  * Irrigate 2 to 3 days before so the soil is moist to 100 mm. Dry soil produces shattered, short cores; saturated soil produces smeared, sealed holes.
  * Mark irrigation heads, valve boxes and shallow cable runs before the first pass.
  * Mow to the low end of the species band and bag the clippings, so the cores are not buried in leaf.

Do not run it when:
  ! Do not aerate when soil temperature at 50 mm is above 27 degrees Celsius and the turf is under heat stress; the open holes dry out and the recovery cost exceeds the benefit.
  ! Do not aerate warm-season turf before full green-up; the stolons are not growing and the holes stay open for weeks.
  ! Never aerate immediately before a forecast of heavy rain on a sloped site; the cores wash into a slurry and seal the surface.
  ! Do not aerate a lawn treated with a pre-emergent herbicide within the last 60 days if you intend to overseed in the same operation. Break the pre-emergent barrier and crabgrass germinates into the holes.

Calibration:
  + Measure actual core depth by pushing a tine into the ground next to a finished hole and reading the soil line on the tine.
  + Check tine spacing by laying a 300 mm ruler across a finished pass and counting the holes.
  + Inspect the cores: they should be 50 to 75 mm long and hold together. Crumbled cores mean the soil is too dry; smeared cores mean too wet.
  + Replace tines after 15 to 20 hours of use, or when the tip has worn round and the core diameter has dropped below 10 mm.

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## Nitrogen programme with split applications  [fertilizing]
   https://mistyvale.top/op/nitrogen-program-split-application/

Window: Cool-season turf is fed in two main windows, late spring after the flush has slowed and early autumn, with a smaller early-summer application. Warm-season turf is fed from full green-up in late spring through midsummer, and stops eight weeks before the first expected frost. The trigger is soil temperature at 50 mm, not a date.
Frequency: Three to four applications a year on a home lawn, which is what a split ratio is for. A single annual application of 15 g per square metre loses most of its nitrogen to leaching and volatilisation and pushes a flush of growth that feeds thatch.
Implement: Rotary broadcast spreader for granular products, calibrated on a hard surface. Backpack or hose-end sprayer for liquid urea or iron. A soil thermometer for the trigger.

  - Annual nitrogen, cool-season lawn: 10 to 20 g per square metre
  - Annual nitrogen, warm-season lawn: 10 to 20 g per square metre
  - Annual nitrogen, low-input fescue: 3 to 6 g per square metre
  - Maximum in a single application: 5 g per square metre
  - Cool-season split ratio: 40:30:30 or 45:20:35 across spring, summer, autumn ratio
  - Warm-season split ratio: 40:35:25 or 45:30:25 ratio
  - Iron for colour without growth: 2 g per square metre
  - Warm-season stop date: 8 weeks before the first expected frost lead time

Must hold before you start:
  * Calibrate the spreader on a hard surface over a 1 square metre sheet, weighing the product collected, not reading the dial.
  * Water 6 to 10 mm after granular application, or apply immediately before forecast rain of the same amount. Urea left on dry leaf volatilises.
  * Soil test first if the lawn has never been tested: pH and phosphorus decide whether the nitrogen you buy will do anything.
  * Mow and remove clippings before applying, so the granules reach the soil surface instead of sitting in the canopy.

Do not run it when:
  ! Do not apply nitrogen when soil temperature at 50 mm is above 27 degrees Celsius on a cool-season lawn. The roots are shutting down and the leaf growth it produces is disease-prone.
  ! Do not apply on frozen ground or to a lawn that is in drought dormancy; the nitrogen will not be taken up and will run off.
  ! Do not apply within 2 metres of open water, or on a slope above one in ten without a buffer strip, whatever the product label claims about being slow release.
  ! Do not apply high-nitrogen product to a low-input fine fescue lawn. Above 6 g per square metre per year that lawn thins and goes diseased, not greener.

Calibration:
  + Weigh 100 g of product, spread it over a measured 10 square metre area, then weigh what is left to confirm the drop rate.
  + Make two passes at right angles at half the target rate each, rather than one pass at the full rate. Striping is the most common cause of burned patches.
  + Check the spread pattern with a tray test: 6 to 8 trays in a line, one pass, and measure what each tray caught. An uneven pattern means the ports need cleaning.
  + Rinse the spreader over a lawn area, never over a driveway drain.

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中文
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## 定高修剪  [mowing]
   https://mistyvale.top/zh/op/mowing-height-and-one-third-rule/

时间窗口: 全年，按生长速度而不是日历决定。冠层长到目标高度的三分之一就剪。只有 50 mm 处土温低于 5℃、地上生长完全停止时才停剪。
频次: 温带冷季型草坪一年 22–35 次，暖季型 18–26 次。次数跟着生长速度走，不存在一个全年都对的「每周一次」。
器械: 低于 25 mm 的区间一律用滚刀式剪草机；30 mm 以上可用旋刀式。排草口加碎草塞把草屑回田而不是装袋收走。

  - 目标修剪高度: 25 to 70 mm depending on species
  - 单次最大剪除量: one third of the standing blade
  - 春季旺长期间隔: 3 to 4 days
  - 平稳生长期间隔: 7 to 14 days
  - 硬质面切边深度: 25 to 40 mm
  - 草屑回田带入的氮: 1 to 2 g per square metre per year

作业前必须成立的条件：
  * 在硬质平整地面上设定刀床或刀片高度，并用尺子实测，不要相信刻度盘。
  * 在冠层干燥时剪。湿草会被撕裂，并把真菌孢子从一株带到另一株。
  * 每次换 45–90 度方向，避免草坪形成固定倒向的「纹理」。

不要做的情况：
  ! 50 mm 处土温高于 30℃ 且草坪处于干旱休眠时不要剪：叶片不再生长，剪下去等于暴露生长点。
  ! 不要为了补上漏掉的几次而一次性剪掉超过三分之一。先把刀盘抬高剪一次，再用一周时间分两三次降回目标高度。
  ! 霜后 48 小时内、或叶片仍处于冰冻状态时不要剪。

校准：
  + 把剪草机停在铺装面上，刻度调到目标高度，然后量地面到刀片两端的实际距离。
  + 每次磨刀或拆装刀盘后重新校一次高度，基准点会变。
  + 叶尖出现白色撕裂边而不是干净切口时就该磨刀；家庭草坪一季一到两次。

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## 空心打孔通气  [aeration]
   https://mistyvale.top/zh/op/hollow-tine-aeration/

时间窗口: 冷季型草坪放在初秋：50 mm 处土温在 15–21℃ 之间、草正在旺长的时候。暖季型草坪放在晚春到初夏：完全返青之后、50 mm 处土温高于 20℃ 时。
频次: 壤土上的家庭草坪一年一次。枯草层超过 15 mm、黏土、或踩踏频繁的草坪春秋各一次。低投入、无人踩踏的细叶羊茅草坪可以隔年一次。
器械: 空心打孔机（取芯式），手推或牵引均可，打孔针直径 12–16 mm、孔距 50–100 mm。实心锥打孔机不能替代：它把孔壁压实，而不是取出土芯。

  - 打孔深度: 75 to 100 mm
  - 孔距: 50 to 100 mm
  - 打孔针直径: 12 to 16 mm
  - 同一地面的趟数: 2, at 90 degrees to each other passes
  - 75 mm 孔距下每平方米孔数: approx 178 holes
  - 作业时的土壤含水量: moist but not saturated, crumbly not smeared state
  - 打孔后表施砂量: 1 to 2 mm

作业前必须成立的条件：
  * 枯草层超过 15 mm 时先疏草。在厚草垫上打孔，土芯是落在草垫上而不是回到土里。
  * 提前两到三天灌水，让土壤湿到 100 mm。干土打出来的是碎短芯；饱和土打出来的是被抹平、封死的孔。
  * 第一趟之前标出喷头、阀门箱和浅埋线缆。
  * 先按该草种区间下沿剪一次并收走草屑，别让土芯埋在草叶里。

不要做的情况：
  ! 50 mm 处土温高于 27℃、草坪处于热胁迫时不要打孔；开放孔洞会快速失水，恢复成本大于收益。
  ! 暖季型草坪完全返青前不要打孔；匍匐茎还没开始长，孔会开好几周。
  ! 坡地上，预报有大雨前不要打孔；土芯会被冲成泥浆并封住坪面。
  ! 如果打算同一次作业里覆播，就别在 60 天内用过芽前除草剂的草坪上打孔。破坏了药膜，马唐会直接在孔里出苗。

校准：
  + 把打孔针插进已完成孔洞旁边的土里，读针上的泥线，实测真实打孔深度。
  + 把 300 mm 直尺横放在打过的一趟上数孔数，核对孔距。
  + 检查土芯：应当长 50–75 mm 且成条不断。碎芯说明太干，抹光的芯说明太湿。
  + 使用 15–20 小时后更换打孔针，或者当针尖磨圆、土芯直径小于 10 mm 时更换。

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## 分次施氮方案  [fertilizing]
   https://mistyvale.top/zh/op/nitrogen-program-split-application/

时间窗口: 冷季型草坪有两个主窗口：旺长放缓后的晚春与初秋，外加一次较小的初夏施肥。暖季型草坪从晚春完全返青施到盛夏，并在预计初霜前八周停氮。触发条件是 50 mm 处土温，不是某个日期。
频次: 家庭草坪一年三到四次，这正是「分次比」的意义。一年一次性下 15 g·m⁻² 的话，大部分氮会淋失或挥发，还会催出一轮只给枯草层添料的旺长。
器械: 颗粒肥用旋转式离心撒肥机，在硬质地面上标定。液体尿素或铁肥用背负式或水管接头喷施器。土温计用来判断触发条件。

  - 冷季型草坪年施氮: 10 to 20 g per square metre
  - 暖季型草坪年施氮: 10 to 20 g per square metre
  - 低投入羊茅草坪年施氮: 3 to 6 g per square metre
  - 单次施氮上限: 5 g per square metre
  - 冷季型分次比: 40:30:30 or 45:20:35 across spring, summer, autumn ratio
  - 暖季型分次比: 40:35:25 or 45:30:25 ratio
  - 只调色不催长的铁: 2 g per square metre
  - 暖季型停氮时间: 8 weeks before the first expected frost lead time

作业前必须成立的条件：
  * 在硬质地面上用一平方米的布标定撒肥机，称收集到的肥料重量，不要看刻度。
  * 颗粒肥施后给 6–10 mm 水，或者赶在预报同等雨量之前施。尿素干留在叶面上会挥发。
  * 从未做过土检的草坪先做一次：pH 与磷决定你买的氮能不能起作用。
  * 施前先剪草并收走草屑，让颗粒落到土面而不是停在冠层里。

不要做的情况：
  ! 冷季型草坪在 50 mm 处土温高于 27℃ 时不要施氮。根系正在停摆，催出的叶片易病。
  ! 冻土上、或处于干旱休眠的草坪上不要施。氮不会被吸收，只会径流走。
  ! 距开放水体 2 m 以内、或坡度大于十分之一又没有缓冲带时不要施，无论标签怎么写「缓释」。
  ! 不要给低投入细叶羊茅草坪施高氮肥。超过 6 g·m⁻²·年之后，那种草坪会变稀、生病，而不是变绿。

校准：
  + 称 100 g 成品肥，在量好的一平方米区域上撒完，再称剩余量来确认实际落量。
  + 按目标量的一半走两趟、方向互相垂直，而不是按全量走一趟。条纹状烧苗几乎都是单趟全量造成的。
  + 用托盘法检查撒布均匀度：一排 6–8 个托盘、走一趟，量每个托盘接到的量。分布不均说明出料口需要清理。
  + 清洗撒肥机要在草坪上冲洗，绝不要对着车道排水口冲。

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